From the vantage point of the twenty-first century, the tumultuous and transitional Thonburi period (1767–82) in Thailand’s history seems to be eclipsed by both the lost splendour of ancient Ayutthaya and the palpable grandeur of the ensuing Rattanakosin period. The latter’s quintessence, embodied to this day in the sumptuous monumentality of the Grand Palace, mesmerises millions of visitors annually. Nevertheless, those momentous 15 years between the devastating fall of Ayutthaya and the founding of the Chakri dynasty were crucial for paving the way towards modern Thailand.  Away from the abiding touristic popularity of the Grand Palace, and discreetly ensconced within the headquarters of the Royal Thai Navy on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River, the heritage site of Phra Racha Wang Derm (literally, “former palace”) is scrupulously maintained today in a commendable effort to render this important chapter of Thai history eloquent and meaningful in a contemporary context. Viewed from the river, the most arresting structure of the palace complex is Wichaiprasit Fort, which has been guarding the fluvial artery to the historic capital of Ayutthaya since the late seventeenth century.  In 1767, with Ayutthaya ravaged by war beyond any hope of revitalisation, King Taksin (1734–82) chose the garrison town of Thonburi as the new capital of what ultimately proved to be a short-lived kingdom. At the king’s behest, a modest palace was erected in 1768 which leveraged the strategic location of the fort.   After King Taksin was deposed in a coup and executed at Wichaiprasit Fort in 1782, prominent royals of the succeeding Chakri dynasty continued to reside at Phra Racha Wang Derm until the turn of the twentieth century, when King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) bequeathed the palace complex to the Royal Thai Navy to serve as the naval academy. Around half a century later, the navy repurposed the property into its headquarters. Today, hallowed by more than 300 years of history, Wichaiprasit Fort is the site of ceremonial gun salutes periodically held against the august backdrop of a nautical flagpole flying the flags of the navy and its commander-in-chief. Occupying the heart of the palace complex is the late Ayutthaya architecture of the Throne Hall—the only extant edifice from King Taksin’s time—which comprises two buildings joined in a “T” configuration. As the Throne Hall has never fallen into disuse over its long existence, one can observe that certain features of its north building, such as the marble flooring and concrete pillars, evidence upgrades in the relatively recent past that did not always prioritise material authenticity. Nonetheless, the Throne Hall’s overall layout as well as the distinctly Thai-style tiered roof with three gable ends are believed to reflect the original conception from the Thonburi period. Notably, the retained open-air design of the north building provides an intriguing contrast to the typically enclosed structure of other throne halls in Thailand.  At one end of the north building is a raised platform where King Taksin would have held court. At the opposite end, one’s attention is immediately drawn to a curious bell, apparently of Chinese provenance, that the abbot of nearby Wat Hong Rattanaram (named after the wealthy Chinese man, Hong, who founded the Buddhist temple in the Ayutthaya period) gave to the navy during the reign of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI). Though the specific reason for this gift is now uncertain, legend has it that King Taksin (whose father was of Teochew Chinese origin) would take a ritual bath in the temple’s sacred pool before embarking on his military campaigns. Today, the navy’s change of command and promotion ceremonies are conducted in the north building of the Throne Hall. The transverse south building was probably where King Taksin held private audiences. Nowadays, the navy occasionally uses the space to receive special guests and organise meetings in the uplifting presence of exquisite display models of royal barges, each of which is characterised by a distinctive design and appellation.  To the east of the Throne Hall are two Chinese-style pavilions dating from the early Rattanakosin period. Originally the accommodations for high-ranking aristocrats, the pavilions subsequently functioned as the naval academy’s storage facilities for training equipment and textbooks. Both buildings are currently dedicated to depicting the story of King Taksin through specially commissioned paintings and illuminating exhibits featuring various artefacts, including weapons from King Taksin’s time that enliven the martial theme of the smaller of the two pavilions.  Another extraordinary artefact is a copy of a period map of Thonburi drawn up by a Burmese spy, which highlights the Thai king’s preoccupation with constructing defensive moats and walls to fortify his new capital.  As a charismatic wartime leader in whose person the warrior-king tradition was revived for the first time since the era of King Naresuan (r. 1590–1605), King Taksin is probably best known today for his military exploits. Remarkably, though, the monarch also found time for other pursuits, such as composing five narrative episodes for the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Hindu epic Ramayana), one of which is vibrantly portrayed in miniature with handmade dolls on display in the larger pavilion. To the west of the Throne Hall is the former residence of King Pinklao, who was born at Phra Racha Wang Derm in 1808 and, in his capacity as the nation’s first naval commander from 1851 to 1865, is credited with laying the foundation for the modern Thai navy. This building is among the earliest examples of a Thai royal residence inspired by Western architecture.  Today, in addition to housing informative displays about the life and work of King Pinklao, the upper floor of the residence is enriched by precious specimens of Bencharong ware (elegantly designed porcelains historically produced in China for the Thai market). The ground floor has been converted into a compact office for the Phra Racha Wang Derm Restoration Foundation, which was established in 1995 to raise funds for, and oversee the restoration of, heritage buildings in the palace complex.  The noteworthy restoration effort at Phra Racha Wang Derm received an Award of Merit in 2004 as part of the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation, which have been recognising the successful conservation of structures, places and properties of heritage value in the region for over two decades. The award citation hails the “multifaceted and ambitious project” for the ways it “effectively incorporated the use of traditional methods and craftsmanship and conserved important examples of royal decorative fine arts.”  Far from resting on these laurels, however, Khunying Nongnuj Siridej, who initiated the restoration project nearly three decades ago and currently serves as vice president of the Phra Racha Wang Derm Restoration Foundation, remarked in a recent interview that “restoration is always work in progress.” Indeed, as is typical of riverside heritage sites in a tropical climate, issues such as soft foundations, damp conditions and termite infestation are a constant threat that can cause serious structural damage if left unaddressed. Without regular expert care and maintenance under the management of the foundation, “these buildings would be in ruins by now,” she said. Ultimately, Khunying Nongnuj articulated her hope that the preservation of the storied structures of Phra Racha Wang Derm will help to keep history alive, tangible and resonant for future generations. After all, if history can be instructive, then perhaps the most encouraging lesson to be drawn from the Thonburi chapter of Thai history, especially for our post-pandemic world, is that the human spirit can be exceptionally resilient even in the face of unimaginable calamity. With courage and an indomitable will to survive and thrive, people learn to adapt, rebuild their lives and livelihoods, sustain their identity and culture, and cultivate life-affirming creative expression through the most turbulent of times.

Consecrated by rich history and exalted by the faith of its local community, Wat Prayurawongsawas (known colloquially as Wat Prayoon) inspires awe with the grandeur of its towering Phra Borommathat Maha Chedi (principal stupa), whose pleasing bell-shaped proportions find glorifying aesthetic resonance in the 18 subsidiary stupas that punctuate the encircling gallery.  ‘This chedi is one of a kind in Thailand’, says Phra Brahmapundit, abbot of Wat Prayoon, as he sits serenely in the temple’s ubosot (ordination hall), against the impressive backdrop of a golden Buddha that remains resplendent with gilding adroitly executed almost two centuries ago.  The chedi’s most distinctive feature is its accessible interior space, where one can marvel at the massive central pillar of about 20 metres in height and 144 tonnes in weight. When construction began in 1828, under the reign of King Rama III, Wat Prayoon’s principal stupa was structurally anachronistic: hollow chedis with a central pillar were more typical of the Ayutthaya period (1350–1767). ‘But no such chedi from the Ayutthaya period ever attained this size’, the abbot remarks. Phra Brahmapundit proceeds to recount that, during the Second World War, a bomb intended for the strategic Memorial Bridge—the only bridge spanning the Chao Phraya River at the time—missed its target and detonated near the front entrance to the Wat Prayoon complex. The vihara (assembly hall) suffered severe damage, but the enormous Sukhothai-style statue of the Buddha enshrined therein was perfectly unscathed.   The roof of the ubosot was partly destroyed, consequently admitting rainwater that washed away original murals from three of the four walls.  When observed from its exterior, the chedi seemed to be undisturbed. Nevertheless, Phra Brahmapundit hypothesises that the impact of the bomb eventually caused the central pillar to snap crosswise about two metres above its base and lean its considerable tonnage against the inner wall of the chedi. Surveying the structure in 2006, engineers from King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Ladkrabang (KMITL) found that the entire chedi was inclining towards the Chao Phraya River by about 1.2 metres. Fearing further leaning and potential collapse, the abbot initiated the chedi’s restoration project in close consultation with KMITL and the Fine Arts Department. Owing to the need to preserve the unique pillar, the restoration effort necessitated nothing less than a virtuosic engineering feat. Six months were required to devise a plan that ultimately entailed the creation of a precautionary steel framework to surround the pillar, reinforcing the chedi’s core structure with a solid steel armature to ensure future stability, and carefully lifting the pillar into its original position by maneuvering hydraulic jacks in a tight space.  During the chedi’s restoration process (2006–10), numerous precious relics were found in two theretofore undiscovered crypts. As evidenced by a newspaper dated 25 September 1954 which was left behind by an unsuccessful looter, the reputed worth of these relics had been attracting unwanted attention for quite some time. Many of the discovered relics (as well as the newspaper) are now kept in the Pharin Pariyattithammasala, a storied pavilion that was built during the reign of King Rama V and once served as Thailand’s first public library. After years of disuse and disrepair, the pavilion was restored along with the chedi and converted into a small museum. The exemplary restoration of the chedi and the adjoining pavilion at Wat Prayoon garnered an Award of Excellence in 2013 as part of the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation, which have been recognizing the successful conservation of structures, places and properties of heritage value in the region over the past two decades. The award citation not only applauds the ‘sophisticated understanding of a unique architectural typology from the early Rattanakosin era’ but also underscores the project’s ‘extensive social impact in the multicultural historic district of Kadeejeen.’ According to Phra Brahmapundit, the UNESCO commendation gave Wat Prayoon the credibility to subsequently advocate for the culturally diverse Kadeejeen community by engaging in discussions with government officials and spearheading initiatives for sustainable local development, including the creatively designed Chao Phraya Sky Park (officially opened to the public with much fanfare in 2020) and the nearly complete riverside promenade stretching from Wat Prayoon to Wat Kalayanamit, which is wide enough to accommodate both pedestrians and biking tourists.  Today, Phra Brahmapundit describes Wat Prayoon as a ‘reception area’ for tourists wishing to experience the idiosyncratic charm of the Kadeejeen community. Indeed, the intriguing blend of Eastern and Western elements in Wat Prayoon’s spectacular Khao Mo—the largest manmade mountain outside of the Grand Palace—highlights the harmonious multiculturalism that the abbot regards as the strength of this community.  Just a short walk from Wat Prayoon is Santa Cruz Church, an exquisite testament to the notable Portuguese presence in the area since the Thonburi period (1767–82).  And a stone’s throw from Santa Cruz Church is one of the oldest Chinese shrines in the country, Kian Un Keng Shrine, which is dedicated to the goddess Guan Yin. Venturing deeper into the Kadeejeen community, one becomes immersed in the tranquillity of a residential neighbourhood of clean narrow alleys and densely packed houses. In the relaxed early afternoon, the aroma of a home-cooked meal wafts listlessly through the air. A world away from Bangkok’s dazzling shopping malls and the standardized offerings of chain convenience stores, some residents have transformed their homes into colourful shops and restaurants offering up sweet and savoury culinary delights that reflect the heritage of cultural intermingling in this old district. Back at Wat Prayoon, Phra Brahmapundit notes that recent media portrayals, including popular Thai films like Love Destiny 2 (2022), have helped to enhance awareness of the temple’s historical significance. Moreover, once its construction is complete, the southern Purple Line of the Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) subway system will make the temple and, by extension, the Kadeejeen district itself more accessible to curious visitors. Anticipating the future touristic influx, which he considers a ‘double-edged sword’, the abbot stresses the importance of adhering to a masterplan that aims to ensure sustainable growth in order to avoid environmental degradation and unbridled commercialization. For the abbot, a laudable development in recent years—brought about in no small part through Wat Prayoon’s persistent advocacy—has been the enlargement of the boundaries of Rattanakosin Island (the historic heart of Bangkok) to include the western bank of the Chao Phraya River from Wat Prayoon to Wat Arun. This designation prohibits the construction of any tall building that would eclipse or detract from the visual appeal of heritage landmarks. ‘We inherit, safeguard and leverage what we have’, Phra Brahmapundit says. ‘The community’s faith-based way of life endures. We have become recognized as a model for amiable coexistence and cultural preservation.’  Asked about his vision for Wat Prayoon’s future, the abbot expresses optimism distilled from decades of practical wisdom: ‘The temple will be even more magnificent.’ This is a lightly adapted version of an article that first appeared in the Bangkok Post, 9 October 2023. #CultureForSustainableDevelopment

Teen pregnancy rates have been falling dramatically in Thailand thanks to progressive legislation, but more can be done to drive it lower if the rights of girls and young women are respected, according to the UN Population Fund (UNFPA).   Ahead of the International Day of the Girl Child, marked annually on 11 October, Asa Torkelsson, the Fund’s Country Director in Thailand, spoke to UN News and explained how the UN is supporting access to sexual and reproductive health, especially for young people.   UN News: How widespread is teen pregnancy in Thailand? Asa Torkelsson: The Thai government, with the support of national and international partners like UNFPA, has made significant progress in reducing teen pregnancy over the past decade. In 2011, the rate among women aged 15 to 19 was 53.4 births per 1,000, the highest it has been in Thailand since records began. Legislation introduced in 2016 aimed to halve the rate within 10 years, but that target was reached by 2021, and now the aim is to reach less than 15 births per 1,000 by 2027. So, the statistics show that Thailand is doing very well, but more work needs to be done.   UN News: What more needs to be done to drive down the rate of teen pregnancies? Asa Torkelsson: A range of social issues drives adolescent pregnancy. They include stigmatization about accessing birth control, gender inequality, poverty, sexual violence, and coercion as well as negative attitudes about women and girls. Many efforts to reduce it also neglect to account for the important role of boys and men. We need to make greater efforts to promote a masculinity which listens to and respects the dignity of women and girls. A more holistic approach is required to support girls’ rights and to empower them to avoid adolescent pregnancy. Such an approach should include age-appropriate comprehensive sexuality education for all young people, the building of gender-equitable societies by empowering girls and engaging men and boys, and measures to ensure access to sexual and reproductive health information as well as services that welcome them and facilitate their choices. We need to see the participation of young people, families, and communities in establishing safe spaces for young people to discuss their sexual and reproductive health and their choices of family planning.   UN News: What role does stigmatization and discrimination play? Asa Torkelsson: When young girls get pregnant, they can often experience discrimination wherever they are in the world, and this is certainly true in Thailand. Thailand can be considered a traditional society in many respects and so pregnant teens may be regarded with great disapproval, in other words stigmatized. UNFPA has met with many young girls who say they have not received useful sexuality education while at school even though this is part of the curriculum. Others have said that they felt uncomfortable or shamed for asking for contraception because healthcare workers would be disdainful and would gossip behind their backs. In the worst cases, this discrimination and stigmatization forces adolescent mothers to drop out of school and even to be deserted by their own family.   UN News: What are the long-term impacts of teen pregnancy? Asa Torkelsson: Most teen pregnancies are unplanned and unintended and so often lead to many challenges. Many adolescents are not yet physically ready for pregnancy or childbirth and are therefore more vulnerable to complications. In fact, early pregnancy is the chief contributor to death among younger girls in Thailand. Additionally, in Thailand, they tend to be from lower-income households, and many are nutritionally depleted, increasing the risks associated with pregnancy and childbearing. Adolescent pregnancy takes an enormous toll on a girl’s education and income-earning potential, as many girls stop going to school. UN News: How progressive is Thailand in sexual and reproductive health issues? Asa Torkelsson: The Thai government has worked hard to ensure the rights to sexual and reproductive health for all people who live in Thailand, including young people. In 2002, the universal health coverage system was introduced, giving all people access to health care. This includes family planning services and access to a wide range of birth control options, such as the contraceptive pill and long-acting contraception implants. From 2021, every young Thai person was able to receive up to 10 free condoms a week. And more legislation specifically aimed at addressing the issue of teen pregnancy was enacted in 2016 as part of the Act for the Prevention and Solution of the Adolescent Pregnancy Problem. The law ensures essential rights for young people, including the right to education, especially for adolescent girls who get pregnant, stipulating that denying those rights is illegal.   UN News: Is the legislation helping to reduce teen pregnancy? Asa Torkelsson: Effective legislation requires more than its passing into law. There is a lot of work to do in making sure the healthcare sector in Thailand is properly trained on the new requirements as well as how to deal with young pregnant girls. Attitudes across society also need to change and more needs to be invested in education, especially through the secondary level, in order to engage boys and explain fully to girls what their rights are. It’s clear the government wants to ensure that young people can access and enjoy rights to sexual and reproductive health, as young people in a rapidly ageing society are considered the key to future prosperity. For its part, UNFPA is building a range of new partnerships, including South-South and Triangular Cooperation, in order to support government efforts and to ensure young people enjoy their rights, especially those living in remote areas, in ethnic communities, and those living under the poverty line. Our partnerships include working with the private sector including Reckitt, celebrities, online influencers, advocates with disabilities, and groups of vulnerable young people. This story is originally published on UN News.

Thailand has made what has been described as “robust progress” towards meeting the targets of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) but a “whole of society approach” is needed to maintain momentum according to the UN Resident Coordinator in the country. Gita Sabharwal spoke to UN News ahead of the SDG Summit 2023 which gets underway at UN Headquarters in New York on 18 September. The summit marks the beginning of a new phase of accelerated progress towards the achieving the SDGs by 2030.   “Whenever I meet the young people of Thailand, I always encourage them to think about the SDGs and to think big, in order to reinforce the good progress the country is making.   While only 12 per cent of SDGs are on track to be achieved globally by 2030, in contrast, progress in Thailand has been much more robust, especially compared to many other nations in Southeast Asia. Over forty per cent of the indicators are on course. A third need acceleration and a quarter are regressing, including crucially SDG 13 which focuses on climate action, so there is clearly more work to do.  In the context of Thailand, the Government’s policy framework sets this as a priority in line with the country’s Bio-Circular-Green (BCG) economic policy agenda.   UN as custodian of universal principles The UN Country Team in Thailand is doing its part as conveners, technical experts and custodian of universal principles to accelerate those SDGs requiring attention. All 21 UN agencies are bringing science-based solutions, digitization, and integrated policy advice to a wide range of projects across the country. Among the three key areas that we prioritize aligned to the country’s National Strategy - the 13 NESDP - is our support to the country’s transition to a green, inclusive, and low carbon economy. For example, the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) is assisting the Government in quantifying gains if the country switches to organic rice production, which will enhance biodiversity in paddy fields, lower emissions, reduce pesticides while maintaining yields.  Analysis shows that increasing the cultivated area of organic rice by 10 per cent could generate benefits of over $400 million over 15 years. The Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the International Trade Centre (ITC) also support sustainable agriculture, which directly impacts the lives and livelihoods of 12 million farmers, including collecting geospatial data to generate agriculture statistics, using drones for data and crop mapping. UNESCO supports inclusivity through education, climate action, and biosphere protection. Together with the travel company Expedia, it also secured commitments from over 1,300 large and medium-sized hotels to eliminate single use plastics and support marine conservation through the Sustainable Travel Pledge. The UN Development Programme (UNDP) is adopting a bottom-up approach by supporting biodiversity-based tourism at the community level to reduce threats from unsustainable tourism and create local livelihoods. It also supports the government in developing sustainable energy policies and expanding access to renewable energy sources. I am particularly proud of UN’s partnership with the Ministry of Interior on waste segregation. Some 14 million households are part of this initiative which will yield 550,000 tons of carbon emissions reductions. The first tranche of carbon credits ($21,000) that accrued were bought by a private bank.  This is an important aspect of the SDGs localization agreement in which all of the country’s 77 provinces signed up to a commitment to forge a country based on sound sustainability principles. 
  Shared responsibility  The UN in Thailand has also been working closely with the private sector, facilitating its commitment to achieving carbon neutrality by 2050. Among the UN agencies working with businesses are IOM, UNHCR, UNICEF, and UN Women, advocating to put those most vulnerable – migrants, women, children and young people – first in their sustainability plans, budgets, and actions towards a green transition. This means we are backing businesses to transform and invest responsibly, not only in biodiversity conservation, but also towards protection of their workers’ rights and address their grievances in line with the government’s National Action Plan. Also, in what I believe is a global first, the Global Compact Network in Thailand (GCNT), with which the UN partners, has committed to helping protect 30 per cent of land and marine areas nationwide, including reforestation efforts to boost wildlife habitats and create new carbon sinks.  Last year they also reduced emissions amounting to eight million tonnes of carbon, which is equivalent to 1.6 million cars being taken off the roads. Equally important for sustainable development is the role of bankers, investors, and asset managers. They need to take centre stage in unlocking domestic financing for the country’s bio-circular green transition.
  Scaling up investments Importantly, green investments are not only beneficial for the environment, but they also impact bottom lines positively in the medium to long term. I have visited steel and aluminum plants just outside Bangkok to get a sense of how the private sector in Thailand with the support of the Government and the UN is promoting sustainable business practices and encouraging corporate social responsibility. I saw how investments in clean technologies in the steel, aluminum and lead industries are advancing the green transformation by supporting decarbonization efforts. Capital markets are key to these investments and will play a significant role in transforming the economy and driving sustainable growth in Thailand.   Whole of society approach  It is clear that the push towards achieving the SDGs in Thailand requires all sections of Thai society to work together towards the common goal of reaching the ambitious targets of the 17 goals. This “whole of society” approach will succeed if all parties – government, businesses, banks, communities, young people, civil society – are forward-leaning in their sustainability commitments. As the UN, we are committed to delivering high-impact results with these partners while ensuring no one is left behind. We now know the solutions, but the years ahead will demand much stronger leadership—from the capital, the provinces to the remote villages across the country.
 
The multiple crises impacting us means we must raise the bar even higher, stepping up our game to deliver for those who need it most in the next 7 years.
 
As the UN Secretary-General says, “this is no time for complacency.” This story is originally published on UN News.